Food: Japan’s favourite casual yakitori restaurant Torikizoku arrives at 18 Cross with second Singapore izakaya

It’s always deeply satisfying to have a good yakitori meal: a table gradually filling with skewers, the smoky aroma of grilled meat in the air, drinks arriving cold, and the kind of lively conversation that makes you want to stay for just one more round.

That is precisely the energy at Torikizoku, the popular Japanese yakitori chain that has opened its second Singapore outlet at 18 Cross, following its debut at VivoCity earlier this year. Situated in the heart of the CBD, the new 76-seat restaurant brings Torikizoku’s casual, fuss-free approach to Japanese dining to a newly refurbished space, making it an easy option for everything from weekday lunches and after-work drinks to casual dinners with friends and colleagues. And while the restaurant may be best known for its yakitori, there is plenty more to work your way through.

The star of the menu is undoubtedly Torikizoku’s signature KIZOKUYAKI, jumbo-sized, meaty yakitori skewers that are noticeably more substantial than your average chicken skewer. The jumbo chicken breast with salt is meaty and juicy, with a clean savoury flavour that lets the chicken speak for itself, while the jumbo thigh with sauce is richer and more robust, coated in Torikizoku’s signature tare. The oversized skewers are unique to the Singapore outlets, making them a particularly worthwhile order if you are visiting for the first time.

The salt-seasoned skewers are especially impressive. Rather than being aggressively seasoned, they have just enough salt to bring out the flavour of the meat, which somehow makes them even more moreish. You can easily imagine ordering one, then immediately adding another to the table.

The pork belly is another standout, delivering that satisfying balance of rich, fatty meat and charred edges. And for fans of chicken skin, the chicken skin skewers are worth seeking out, which are crisp on the outside but with enough thickness to retain that satisfying chew.

There is also a selection of yakitori for those who enjoy the less conventional cuts, including heart, liver and gizzard. The gizzard is particularly enjoyable, with its characteristic springy texture and savoury grilled flavour. Torikizoku’s chicken meatball with cheese skewer is also a great representation of what’s on offer, with meatballs that are well packed and substantial, with the grilledcheese on top adding richness without overwhelming the chicken.

One of the pleasures of an izakaya-style meal is that the smaller dishes can end up being just as memorable as the main attraction.There are plenty of snacks that are practically designed to accompany a drink. The ika geso, karaage and fried chicken cartilage are all excellent candidates for grazing between skewers. The cartilage in particular has that addictive combination of crunch and savoury flavour that makes it dangerously easy to keep reaching for another piece.

These are the dishes that make the most sense alongside a cold beer or a Suntory Kaku Highball, the kind of food you order almost casually, only to realise the plate has disappeared. And for something completely different, the tako wasabi makes for a refreshing cold counterpoint to all the grilled and fried dishes. Its clean, briny punch helps whet the appetite or reset the palate before you dive back into another skewer.These are the dishes that make the most sense alongside a cold beer or a Suntory Kaku Highball, the kind of food you order almost casually, only to realise the plate has disappeared. And for something completely different, the tako wasabi makes for a refreshing cold counterpoint to all the grilled and fried dishes. Its clean, briny punch helps whet the appetite or reset the palate before you dive back into another skewer.

If you want something more substantial than a table full of skewers, Torikizoku has a few comforting options that are worth exploring. The Chicken Kamameshi, or Japanese claypot rice, is a hearty choice, while the chicken rice porridge is especially comforting. The broth is deeply flavourful, making it the sort of dish that feels satisfying without being overly heavy, a welcome change of pace after several rounds of grilled meat.

One of the more unexpected dishes is the Grilled Fluffy Grated Yam. It is difficult to compare it directly to anything else on the menu: soft, savoury and almost paste-like in texture, it has a slightly sweet, creamy quality that might remind you of a savoury version of orh nee, though considerably lighter. It is an unusual dish, but that is precisely what makes it interesting, particularly when everything else on the table is skewered, grilled or fried.

Food aside, a large part of Torikizoku’s appeal is the atmosphere. On a weekday evening, the 18 Cross outlet quickly takes on the energy of a busy after-work gathering, with a mix of local diners and expats filling the restaurant. There is plenty of chatter, laughter and the general buzz of people settling in for drinks and dinner, creating a distinctly raucous atmosphere without becoming overwhelming.

The 76-seat outlet has 40 indoor seats and 36 outdoor seats, giving diners a choice between settling into the restaurant proper or taking in more of the CBD surroundings. The well-designed layout gives the experience an almost booth-like intimacy. You can still hold a conversation across the table while the noise and energy of the restaurant carries on around you. It feels social without being chaotic, exactly the sort of environment where a quick dinner can easily turn into a longer evening, and like you’ve stepped right into Tokyo.

Torikizoku’s pricing is another part of its appeal. Its signature flat pricing keeps things straightforward, with food and non-alcoholic beverages at S$3.90++, while alcoholic beverages are S$9.90++. It means you can order liberally, try a few different things and build a table of skewers and snacks without constantly calculating what each dish will add to the bill. And that, ultimately, is what makes the new Torikizoku at 18 Cross such an enjoyable addition to the CBD dining scene.

It is casual, lively and uncomplicated, a place where you can drop in for a quick weekday lunch, settle down for after-work drinks or make an evening of it over endless skewers. The food is satisfying without trying too hard, the portions are generous, and there is enough variety to keep a group happily ordering and sharing. Come for the jumbo KIZOKUYAKI, stay for the crispy chicken skin and fried cartilage, then round things off with a comforting bowl of chicken rice porridge. Add a highball or two, and you have the makings of a very easy evening.

For a casual yakitori restaurant that delivers plenty of flavour, a lively atmosphere and a bill that does not leave too much of a dent in your wallet, Torikizoku’s second Singapore outlet looks set to become the kind of place you’ll find yourself making plans around, whether that means a weekday lunch date, an after-work catch-up or simply an evening when you feel like eating a lot of good skewers.

Torikizoku is open at 18 Cross, 181 South Bridge Rd, #01-02/01-K1, Singapore 058743. More information available here

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